A comprehensive guide to Oahu, Hawaii
Entry #3
I write this much less as a travel blog or guide as I say in the title (sorry for the misleading advertising), but rather as a brief summary of my experience in Oahu this year of 2022. I already spoke a bit about Hawaii in my first post “Hawaii and a quest for authenticity”, but guarantee my ranting at the beginning of that blog isn’t exactly helpful for anyone just looking for travel tips. So, take two here we go…
Speed blur, Pipeline Oahu. If you aren’t familiar, Pipeline is perhaps the most famous surf break in the world and is frequented by some of the world’s greatest surfers, especially in the winter.
Overview
This year I’ve been lucky enough to go to Oahu twice. Once in February for about two weeks during the Pipeline Pro contest on the North Shore and once in March when the waves were still good, but a little less crowded. I spent most of my time on the North Shore, crashing with a friend and rented a car both times (once from a friend and once from Turo), which enabled me to see quite a bit of the island. I ventured all the way from home base in Laie north and around the coast to Ka’Ena Point, then south to Waikiki. Although I was highly tempted to head to the west side in search of dolphins at Electric Beach, I ended up maximizing time and exploring more in my proximity. I did drive up the center of the island once and explored a few places there, but due to my obsession with the water that was where I usually hung out.
A Galapagos Shark off the North Shore. Diving with sharks is hands down one of my favorite activities.
Respect the Locals
Local Hawaiians, especially along the North Shore and the West Coast, can be a little wary and occasionally aggressive towards tourists and honestly for right reasons. Unfortunately sometimes tourists are loud, brash, entitled, and annoying. As with my advice for anywhere you travel, remember that people actually LIVE where you’re visiting. What you see as your “playground” is in reality their homes, so treat it with respect. Don’t litter, don’t try to surf at a difficult spot unless you belong, don’t wear a Hawaiian shirt, don’t travel in massive groups, and by all means do not rent a fucking red Mustang and parade around with the top down playing loud music. Down in Honolulu, where tourists are the regular, this stuff won’t be as much of a problem for you and if you wanted the locals would probably endure you acting like a buffoon, but I still don’t recommend it. Learning to blend into your environment and respect cultures will be a valuable skill to learn for you and whoever is in your traveling party. Talk to locals, eat local foods, avoid tourist traps, drink local beers, and I promise that you will have a seriously special experience. I think this is part of the reason I’ve been able to solo travel so much and always have a great time.
Getting in the water is hands down the best thing you can do in Oahu.
Get in the Water!
It is my opinion that getting in the water is hands down, the best thing you can do on Oahu. This can be done in a variety of different capacities to your liking: scuba, freedive, snorkel, surf, kayak, paddle board, boat ride, etc. Determine which of these methods are the best for you and go for it! I own my own freediving gear from my time in Okinawa, Japan, but there are plenty of places to rent on island and most likely will be an option wherever you are staying. Go to Google and find a few of the cool spots around you, then send it. There are plenty of options to go with a group, but for many spots you can surely go alone (with safety as a priority of course). Here are a few notes and spots that might be worth checking:
Mokoliʻi (Chinaman’s Hat) - More of a kayak / paddle board option, but head out to this island on the west side to hike to the top for some incredible views. The hike is a little technical, so this isn’t for someone who lacks balance. There’s some decent snorkeling around as well.
One Ocean Diving in Haleʻiwa - You may have heard of the famous Ocean Ramsey who freedives with Great Whites in Hawaii, well this is her company. There are a handful of great companies to shark dive with in the area, some in a cage and some without, but this was my favorite. I’ve done a few and personally prefer diving without a cage, because I feel like it attracts a little better of a crowd.
China Walls - This amazing spot off the south side is one of my favorites to dive. Be a little careful getting in and out of the water, but well worth the adventure. Last time I went there, I saw a few turtles and a sandbar shark. If you’re young and hip you can just hang out on the walls and catch sunset, that’s usually a party. I’d say remember safety in this spot, maybe not for the inexperienced.
Jackson Dorian at Off the Wall, the break just adjacent to Pipeline on the North Shore.
Surf
Now about surfing. I’m not going to detail out most of the spots that I’ve surfed or shot, because I think a lot of that information has to be earned. If you’re serious about surfing, go to a local surf shop, ask around and you’ll be directed to the spot for you. If you know what you’re doing, send the North Shore and take an old school approach stopping as you go and checking breaks. Hawaii surf and shorebreak can be dangerous, so don’t be an idiot. Everyone is confident in the ocean until they drown. That being said, there are a few total beginner spots on the south side of the island. Play around in the whitewater and knock surfing in Hawaii off on your list.
A photo I took from the water on the North Shore. Swimming in the waves this day is a very sweet memory.
Food
Now for food. Contrary to many people’s traveling experiences, food isn’t necessarily my top priority, so if you’re looking for gourmet dining, I’m probably not the best person to talk to. That being said, I do really appreciate good food and local cuisine, I just try to do it at a budget to save my pennies. Wherever I go, I tend to stay away from the more touristy looking places and go local. Here on Oahu I stopped at a fair few places along the sides of the road that I don’t even know the name of. Regardless, here are a few I remember, mainly on the upper east side or North shore.
Seven Brothers - There are multiple locations on the island, I went to the one in Kahuku. I’m talking some of the best burgers you’ve ever had, with a little Hawaiian twist on a few.
Papis Tacos - You can’t go wrong with the burritos or tacos here.
The Sunrise Shack - If you’re familiar with the Smith Brothers (Travis, Alex, and Koa) this is their spot. Specializing in basic breakfast foods, smoothie bowls, smoothies, and bullet coffee.
Ted’s Bakery - Some good local cuisine and bakes near the North Shore.
Foodland - If you want cheap and pretty bomb Poke, go here. Honestly, this was probably the place I most frequented along the North Shore, Oahu. Don’t blame me for being on a budget.
Views off Ka‘Ena Point Natural Area Reserve, the Northwest point of the island.
Well, that’s about all the insight I have to offer today, but I hope it was at least somewhat useful. Bottom line, Oahu is an amazing place that everyone should visit at least once. If you stay away from the highly touristy areas and don’t act like a kook (someone who doesn’t belong), I’m sure you’ll have an amazing time. My suggestions were a little more adventurous than most might be up for, but I’m sure there are plenty of mellow options on the south side of the island if that’s what you’re in to as well. Either way is great and I hope you enjoy.
Safe travels,
Ben
